I soon realized that no journey carries one far unless, as it extends
into the world around us, it goes an equal distance into the world
within. ~Lillian Smith
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| petit rouge gorge |
A few overcast days, but the frost has departed for higher ground where it is more welcome. This morning there is a golden band on the horizon promising a partially sunny day, but we shall see. In the early morning fog there is a lone buck wandering the field beyond the winter garden - a powerful and graceful creature, taking his time to find the best morsels of grass. A small rouge-gorge comes daily to harvest the breadcrumbs that we shake from the tablecloth on the back steps. (A European robin about half the size.)
The greys of winter here are warm greys. Amber-grey, softened green, russets, and a color that in soft pastels is called "caput mortum" - a type of purplish-brownish-grey. Snowdrop flowers are dripping in the garden from their fragile stems. There are a few hardy flowers displaying faded blooms, many plants tinged in beige, and the moss and hens-and-chickens are cuddling tenaciously close to the ground. With leaves and flowers gone from many other plants (the wisteria and fruit trees) one is able to better see beyond the yard and gate of Payenché.
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| Portland, Maine (about 30 inches) |
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| Historic Blizzard to hit NYC (didn't happen) |
Meanwhile, back home: blizzard in Maine and New England. I watch posts on Facebook and other social media to be entertained by the various reactions. Finally, something to discuss and bring people "together" even in the midst of isolating them in their homes under two-plus feet of snow. It even reached the evening news broadcast here: "Historic Blizzard to hit New York (and New England of course). Two days later I learn that New York City was spared a direct hit.
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| Périgueux cathedral and market |
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| Périgueux marché - fruit du mer |
Vivi arrived back from Amsterdam last night and today we got caught up quite a bit and went into Périgueux to do some market shopping and supermarket. The outdoor marché is still wonderful, even in cold drizzle, and the antique stone buildings of the city are wonderful with a steely-grey backdrop of clouds. The "fat market" is where they specialize in foie-gras and duck and goose parts. Vivi has ordered a large duck for next week to make some home-made confit (duck meat in duck fat). One of the most amazing things to eat. We also purchased black radishes, fish, a variety of cheeses (SO wonderful are the French cheeses!), and a variety of vegetables.
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| black radish |
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| Amsterdam smoked herring & mackerel |
Vivi brought back some smoked herring and mackerel from Amsterdam (something that is a specialty there). For dinner, with the amazing French bread and cheeses, a taste of the walnut wine (for which I helped pick the unripened walnuts from a tree at Chez Poète, her grandfather's house), an improvised endive salad with sautéed mushrooms and beats, a mixed vegetable soup, a wonderful Bergerac wine, and quiet conversation with good friends makes for a great, unhurried evening meal at Payanché.
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| Walnut wine, homemade (2012) |
A trip into Périgueux takes about fifteen minutes from Payenché through what recently was beautiful countryside but now is being overtaken by small houses dotted along the road. While waiting for an appointment, we visited an art exhibition, "Dédale", a history of street art and urban cultures from the 60s to present.
Interesting works and exhibit but with little explanation of the history which surrounded the artists who created this work. There was a broken floorboard surrounded by caution tape in front of a skateboard chair. It was not originally part of the exhibit, but I thought it fit perfectly with the 60s spirit - pointing out the obvious, as would Warhol or Magritte ("Ceci n'est pas une pipe").
The rain has been constant for the last few days. The temperatures between 40 and 50F, but the dampness is creeping into everything. Périgueux's every little pebble and stone wall is being showered and cleaned. I think we are receiving the left-overs from the New England blizzard.
We stop on the way home at the baker's truck to pick up some more amazing French bread. This truck comes from a store in a town about an hour away which sells Vivi and Denis' favorite bread (pan de campagne). For lunch it makes a wonderful marriage with the duck pâté, a mild white Rebluchon cheese, and a conservative glass of Bergerac wine.
Each day I am aiming to create a good amount of a new painting and have been focusing on pastels. Some are not displeasing to me. I do wish we had sunshine because I find myself so much more inspired with light and color and texture and contrast which the wonderful light brings.
Many evenings, after we sit by the woodstove to chase away the damp, my day is wonderfully topped off with a FaceTime visit with my sweet granddaughter Eliana in Maine.
I can sleep contentedly.
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