Tuesday, March 03, 2015

2015 Italy to France Overnight Bus (March 2)


Bologna, Italy to Lyon, France
March 2

Bologna
Overnight bus from Bologna to Lyon.  I’m leaving earlier than both I or Annamaria had planned, but her cousin has been dealing with cancer and, from a distance at least, seems to be weakening.  Annamaria wants to get there to see her before her tours start in a week and I want her to go as soon as possible.  It was a very full week in Bologna and she was a most gracious and generous friend and hostess.  The experiences I had there are enough to fill a month – and she says she wishes she could have done more.  New flavors, new sites, new friends.  I am leaving with a full heart.  We have already started to make plans about “the next time” - either when she comes to New York with her marathon group or I return to Europe.  I was hoping that she could be the Tour Guide for my group trip to France in April, but it doesn’t seem very plausible through EF Tours.  Karl is hedging politely.

Complex humans are the most interesting of all the earthly entities.  A genuine person:  a good sister to her cousin who is bearing cancer, she is concerned and willing to do anything to help: pray for a miracle, be prepared for the “pragmatic”, research until the early morning hours for the latest breakthroughs of science and natural herbal medicines.  Making plans to go south by overnight bus to be with her cousin as much as possible.  All this in the midst of preparing the myriad details for two separate tour groups, one with a very needy Group Leader who wants to know directly from her minute things like even “what is the weather like” (as if there isn’t an internet where you can find that for yourself) and is who bringing travelers on three different flights who have to be met at the airport, organized and transported to the hotel – just for a start to the tour week.  And in the background of her life her aging mother and her sisters who look to her for strength and help.  A single woman who has survived two not so great relationships and who has had an amazing few hours snatched between spanning years with a magical and honest man.  She explains the details of all the city bus routes, shares detailed historical information as if I’m on tour myself, and remembers the great trip we had in Rome and Florence when we first met.  She can talk for hours non-stop but can be quite and reflective.  She is generous - reluctant to allow me to purchase bus tickets or food or to help clean the house.  Beautiful and striking with bronze skin complemented by her golden coat, mocha eyes that snap and laugh, she reminds me of my best friend from high school at times although I’m not sure exactly why.  Other moments she is weary, burdened by the details of life, looking inward deeply lost in thought.  And then the spark reignites and she returns to complex life she has created.

Waiting for the bus in Bologna, which is late, I meet Bruno, a French student studying in Italy and whose girlfriend lives here.  He is studying languages and she restores paintings.  He had lived in Idaho and loved it, but has never been to the east coast.  With my TravelingArtista card we should be able to keep in touch.  One never knows what chance meetings bring.  After being in a very full busy from Bologna, we are now sitting in Milano while the majority of the travelers have switched buses (including sweet Bruno) fewer people have boarded this bus.  It seems I will have a double seat to myself for a while.  That should be nice as we approach the midnight segment of the ride.

2:17 on the bus and the temperature screen says it has gone from 11C to 5C.  At one point we passed through long and winding tunnels through the mountains, perhaps about 2 K in places.  I sleep a bit and awake to snow on the ground as the drivers stop for fuel.  Sleep again until we are stopped and police enter the bus.  They speak French so I realize bienvenue en France!  Passports are seen and one younger guy is escorted off the bus.  Cap pulled down and those pants that barely hang onto the hips.  He does not seem terribly concerned, but the bus leaves him in the company of the police and we drive on into the night.

High up near the top of the window the moon looks peacefully down.  Suddenly it disappears and the soft glow it gives to the clouds reveal the jagged edge of mountains.  Ah, to see this countryside in the daylight.  The mountains are so high around us.  Lights are sprinkled up the sides of these peaks, obviously from houses and buildings but high enough to seem like stars in the sky.  A light blue double arc on the left is so indistinct I cannot make out what it might possibly be.  Intrigued.  If the moon were only brighter … or better, if the sun were out.  Again and again the midnight orb plays peek-a-boo behind the friendly French mountains.

Arrival should be about 5:30am in Lyon, but Agnès and Pat won’t be awake until 7:30 then they are off to work by 8:30.  Leaving me and the keys to the house alone.  If I don’t get some sleep during this bus ride, I will probably take a nap then, especially if it’s overcast and raining as the weather had stated last time I looked.  Otherwise I’ll be anxious to explore my favorite large city!
 
Lyon, France and the Rhône River 

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