2016 ECUADOR * Double Decker (Feb. 29)

Sunlight in Zilpa's kitchen

When the sun streams into the kitchen first thing in the morning, everything glows with gold, rust and spring green.  This is rare and wonderfully invigorating!  Usually the just-awakening mountains surrounding Cuenca are attempting to poke their heads through blankets of fog and clouds.  Either way it is absolutely beautiful here.

Watercolor:  River of  Tiled Roofs

After a couple weeks (one to settle in and a few more days to recover from a flu) I finally got into some quick painting - more like painting sketches, but it's a start.  It's beautiful to sit at the kitchen table after breakfast and paint the changing light and colors as one looks down over the valley from la Casa del Tío Shanta.  This "River of Tiled Roofs" is one of my personal favorites.

City bus - 25 cents

On days when I go into the city, it's a half-hour, 25 cent, city bus ride with mostly local and indigenous people  I love it!  I really do love riding the bus here. If you smile and greet them with a "buenos días", they glow back at you and often start a conversation.  It causes me to wonder at times because they seem to be surprised at my hello.  Are other gringos and "extranjeros" (foreigners) not as friendly?  I know many of them are not friendly to me.  Walking down the sidewalk, many of them just pretend to not even notice you.  Are they like that with the locals too?  It would be an interesting thing to study - but better yet, it would be a good thing to influence them for the better.  Come on, folks, be friendly!  It's a wonderful world here and Ecuadorians are some of the nicest folks I've ever met!

Another beautiful river spot

Once in the city center there are exhaust fumes and other odors to contend with, but thankfully I wear a scarf to help cover my mouth for breathing as I walk, if needed.  It's not perfect but it helps.  If it becomes too much for a bit, one can always go to walk beside any of the four rivers that run through this city and walk the greenbelt pathways.  There the mountain waters bring along a refreshing breeze and it's a bit of country in the midst of the city. 

Typical street corner vendor

On nearly every corner there is a street vendor.  They sell snacks, gum, cigarettes, fruit, drinks, special items and so much more.  It's a long day but they don't budge.  A quick pick-me-up if you're not wanting to hit one of the many markets or Corals (like a WalMart).

Hornado

I love the local markets, especially for fruits and vegetables.  There is almost anything available there that you can get at the Coral - but it's so much more fun and interesting this way!  If there's a second floor, that is where many "restaurants" are located.  Restaurants in the sense of - well - almost home cooking of indigenous food.  "Hornados" are huge here.  Complete roasted pigs and fixings on the side. 


Cuenca is a beautiful city.  One of the cleanest and best cared for in South America.   [https://en.wikivoyage.org/wiki/Cuenca_%28Ecuador%29]     It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its historical buildings complemented by many parks and rivers.  There are great international and local restaurants - so you can get a good meal for either $2 or $25 up.  Many "gringo" restaurants are available for those who are not quite ready to try the amazing local food.  Personally, I prefer to avoid those spots.  I like mixing with the locals as much as possible!  (Most are more interesting than many of the foreigners who live here, in my opinion.) 

The New Cathedral with the blue Czechoslovakian tiles

The central plaza of the city is Parque Colderón which faces the Nueva Catedral.  On the other side of the park is the Old Cathedral which has an art museum within.  The New Cathedral has three domes which are covered with beautiful blue tiles which were donated by Czechoslovakia and create a unique look behind the solid stone façade (with its incomplete towers).  The New Cathedral is one of the largest in all of South America.  The main altar has twisting, golden columns reminiscent of Bernini's Papal Alter and Baldacchino in St. Peter's of Rome.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Cathedral_of_Cuenca

Indigenous woman

Building tiles and decorations

Yesterday I finally took the city tour bus (double decker) to get the touristy tour of the city.  It points out some places I haven't been yet and would like to go.  It also offers a higher view of the city.  Indigenous people from above and closer views of building decorations. 

On the tour is a Montecristi hat factory (known popularly as "Panama Hats" thanks to FDR purchasing one in Panama during the building of the Canal - but these hats are Made in Ecuador).  Our guide was Quechua but spoke great Spanish and very good English.  The hats are made from a very specific toquilla reed and woven, still, by hand by indigenous women.  It takes a few days to weave and then they are washed, shaped, and finished - still all by hand.  The hats can run from $25 to $25,000 depending on the quality of the weave and other details.  [http://www.panamahats.org/]

Quechua guide explaining Montecristi hats

Montecristi hats ("Panama" hats)

A beautiful, high-end Monticristi sombrero

Women's Montecristi sombreros and bags

Other traditional, handmade Ecuadorian crafts are small sculptures and jewelry made from the Tagua nut and finely detailed silver jewelry.  [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phytelephas]

Ecuadorian silver filigree handmade jewelry

Traditional small sculptures from the Tagua nut

After a day in Cuenca, I usually return "home" via city bus (my favorite ride is #12, but #100 and #27 are good too).  If it is after dark I take a taxi for about $5-6 for the 20 minute ride.  There is only one company has 4WD taxis that can drive up the hill to Casa del Tío Shanta - so usually I have to climb the 45 degree hill up to the house.  Good exercise, I know, but it is in low oxygen (at 8500 feet), so I do tend to complain occasionally... 

Still ... this view is SO worth it!

View from Casa del Tío Shanta at night