Sunday, July 25, 2010

2010 FRANCE * Provence #1 (August)

Travel is joy.  Art is passion.  

"There is something about Provence that I can’t quite understand. It has a way of enveloping you, of transporting you from the everyday and it makes you feel as if you are living life in slow motion. The rest of the world disappears when I am in Provence."    ~Vicki Archer



Provence

Paris is impressive, but as the TGV train takes me further south, we pass through countryside of rolling green hills and trees, those quilted with light, shadow and ancient villages.  My Spirit is refreshed here.  Provence is wild and distant.  The wind, the Mistral, is constantly brushing the landscape, bending the trees in permanent tilts., rustling the olive leaves and sculpting the grey and golden foothills.  There are deep spring-greens of vineyards and soft grey-greens of olive groves, all separated and protected by tall thin poplars and cedars. 



The ancient hills are topped by villages carved from the living rock.  Château des Baux  Centuries of people passing through, making their impact, living their small lives as the rock holds firm.  Niches carved
to hold spices or weapons or treasures - or pigeons.  Natural water chutes encouraged to help collect rain
water, or stone-paved courtyard that slopes to guide the precious water to a cistern.  Ancient rock-hewn
towns with stories of time and people past ... that are still in use today.   From a distance it is nearly invisible, just a hint, blending into the rock hill.  But once one arrives, the stone reveals the hidden life within.

Provence is populated by olive trees, vineyards, worn jagged grey hills and golden stone houses.  The wild mistral wind has calmed.  The air is clear, fresh, light.  "Does it rain here much?" I ask.  "Not like in the north."  "Does it ever snow?" "Very rarely.  And it does not last." 

The Etang of Berre  is a large sea bay (like Portland, Maine’s Back Bay but much larger) the color of the Rhône - a beautiful misty blue-green - but the surrounding land is dry.  it is deceptive to see such abundance in platane trees, olives and grapes, because there seems not enough water to sustain them.  And yet - here they are.  Flourishing and abundant, guarding moisture within their fruit and leaves.  It is a miracle.



Serge and Line (“leen”) have been spoiling me - tremendously.  Line is the sister of a college friend of mine, Chanh.  They love hosting and getting to know new friends.  Last night we went to an amazing restaurant:  La Table de Sébastien, a Michelin star resto, hidden in a courtyard, protected by plantane trees.  The waitstaff was impeccable, each dish was accompanied by a detailed description enhancing the delicious balance of flavors and textures.  I mentioned several times:  “This is NOT Paris.” People here are friendly and polite.  (There are some nice people in Paris, like the people at my hotel, but generally it is not so.  Again, I refer to my theory that it may be small city versus big city individuals.)

My French has improved so I can nearly explain myself well at times.  It is a good start.  My friends are encouraging and people at the open markets and restaurants are helpful, too.  Provence is wonderful for vacation.  “Vacation?” Serge says, “my life is a vacation!”


Each day Line takes me somewhere new.  We explore and discover together.  We went to Cloître Saint-Rémy where Vincent Van Gogh was institutionalized.   We saw his room and walked the paths he once walked.




Another day we went to Aix en Provence to the market, then to see Paul Cézanne’s atelier (studio) as well as passing by the large home where he grew up.  Another spot where the large platane trees line a driveway and protect a home.  (I wonder why Maine does not have these trees.  They grow well in France and in Chile, one would think they are sturdy enough to live in Maine.  They have an amazing textured and colored bark that has amazed me from the first time I saw it.) 




[apologies for the low resolution photos .. these were transferred from an old website and will be updated to high resolution ASAP]

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