Travel is joy. Art is passion.
"See how the light tenderly love the apricots, it takes them over completely, enters into their pulp, light them from all sides!" ~Cézanne
 |
| boats at Cassis |
[apologies for the low resolution photos .. these were transferred from an old website and will be updated to high resolution ASAP]
Provence
 |
| ancient Arles street |
The riches of light, color, and history of Provence are abundant. Serge and Line have been wonderful hosts for me here, taking me to as many places as I have had days here. Each day, each place is
more amazing and wonderful than the preceding. And their generosity is as abundant as the countryside.
 |
| ancient colosseum, Arles |
Arles is a city which is very aware and welcoming of tourists.
(Arles, France info) The Rhône and its aqua waters bend by here as the strong Mistral wind ruffles the surface. Sites of interest are well marked, the maps are clear and the people are friendly. This is a city which appreciates and encourages its tourists. The buildings date from the ancient Roman influence, through Vincent Van Gogh’s visit there, to the present day. Amazingly many buildings of the Romans are still in use today, including the Amphi-
theater. Many of the original stones remain, many areas renovated, and even this week it is used for a bullfight exhibition. (Interestingly, I’ve heard that many
bullfights today are not with “picadors” but the bull ”fighters” use a
sort of ring that is placed over the horn of the bull - more humane.)
There is an ancient city wall still seen in places and parts have been
used as walls for homes or stores.
 |
| Van Gogh's "Night Café" locale |
 |
| Van Gogh's "Night Café" |
We had lunch at a restaurant in a small
plaza. As soon as we entered I recognized the café that Vincent Van
Gogh painted in his famous “C
afé de la nuit”. We did not eat there but
at a nearby resto so we could have the view of the Café as we ate.
Serge is so thoughtful! There is a visual marker there showing the
painting so people are aware. Again the town people being aware of the
importance of their tourist market. It was wonderful to sit and eat and
sip wine in such an artistically historical spot!
 |
| Van Gogh's "Pont" |
 |
| Van Gogh's "Pont" locale |
We then drove about then minutes to the
Pont de Van Gogh to experience
that spot, even though it is rather changed. The citizenry again marked
the way and the spot clearly. Many touristic towns and cities could
learn from Arles.
A half hour down the road is the
Pont du Gard. In one day I experience my first colosseum and my first
aqueduct! And not in Italy, but rather in France. And once again it is
an ancient construction, much of the original stonework still used,
that is kept well and is a very popular place for tourists and for local
people as a great family spot. A restaurant (open during French
restaurant hours, lunch until two, closed, open for later dinner), an
up-to-date stage set with a jazz band warming up for the evening show, a
chance to walk the lower level of the aqueduct, swim in the azure
water, rent a kayak, have a picnic. Beautiful!
 |
| Pont du Gard |
Line remarked how she had
accompanied her children’s classes when they went on field trips there
and visitors were allowed to walk across the top of the aqueduct. Today
it is locked by a barred door and only a few people, with purchased
tickets, are allowed to the top and then only for a short distance.
Just as well for me with my touch of vertigo for such spots. Anyway ...
one cannot see the aqueduct from on top the aqueduct. There were a
couple artists painting the spot, too, and doing a descent job. I will
have to rely on my photos for later paintings. We took a few moments to
remove our shoes and cool our feet in the beautiful crystal water of
the river.
 |
| Notre-Dame de la Guard, Marseille |
 |
| Notre-Dame de la Guard, Marseille |
 |
| Notre-Dame de la Guard, Marseille |
Marseille rivals Lyon for being the second-largest city in France, after Paris, of course.
The Port is huge, filled with Cruise ships and thousands of private
sailboats, motorboats and fishing boats. In the center of the city
peaks a high hill crowned by the
Notre-Dame de la Guard. The history of this basilica is tightly woven with that of Marseille. Originally the site of a small chapel, in 1214, the site later became a
fortress and later the basilica. From this spot there is an amazing
view of all the surrounding city. The Old Marseille, the
Château d’If (made famous by Alexandre Dumas' novel, The Count of Monte Cristo, a powerful story in the imagination of my youth),
the Stadium, the University, the coastline and port. The gold-leafed statue atop the steeple is of
the Virgin and child and is over eleven meters high (37 feet). Inside
the chapel it sparkles with mosaics. Thousands of prayer candles burn
and in the crypt the candles keep the cold stone area at about 90
degrees. The walls of the main chapel are covered with paintings and
photographs of ships and panels of dedication and memorial. The main
doorway still has the wheels and chains of the fortress drawbridge and
corners of the walls have guard towers with the sliver windows for
defense. A fascinating white and grey building that complements the
distance rock hills in color of stone.
 |
| Château d'If, "Count of Monte Cristo" |
 |
| Marseilles |
Driving through Marseille is a wild labyrinth of streets going in all different directions and randomly one way. There is a tiny port area for fishing boats, a larger port for thousands of sailboats which create an abstract of vertical lines, and the main area for cruise and commerce ships. One can be driving a fairly modern section of the city and between two buildings discover an ancient Roman wall. Another section mirrors the buildings of Paris with lacy balconies - but with reconstruction interrupted by the downfall of the Stock Market (la Bourse). Along the coastline, in plain city, are a couple of beaches. From there one can also see the shadowed side of the
Château d’If ... of which I try many times to acquire a good photo, but the sea water is too bright and the shadow too deep to get a decent shot.
 |
| Cassis |
And nearly last, but not least, the Jewel of my experience in France:
Cassis, France.
After the grey-white and intense sun of Marseille, the colors and
visual riches of Cassis are amazing. Tossed and settled in a valley
between many hills, the streets and houses of Cassis create another
labyrinth for moving about, but here it is a joy to discover each tiny
cobblestone street, lined with clean homes and bedecked by plants and
flowers. A feast of colors and textures for the eyes. And the water!
The water is a beautiful, crystal-clear, Caribbean color - blues and
greens that change depending upon the spot. I have known the rich
purple favor of the Cassis liquor, but the village surpasses all
expectations.
 |
| Cassis |
While waiting for our boat ride to see the
calanques (rocky inlets) we have lunch at a great restaurant: Chez Gilbert. Not only is the food wonderful, but the waitstaff is fun and professional. One of my favorite eating experiences in France. If you get a chance to dine in the evening, try to get the upstairs window
table because there is a great view of the harbor. The boat ride along the coast was wonderful, watching the color of the water adjust by depth, the jagged cliffs and clinging trees, and the people on vacation enjoying it all via kayak, sailboat, snorkeling, cliff diving. There are
slivers in the rocks that have been worn by time, wind, and sea, where
sky or daylight peak through. Colors and texture, wind and sea, are
beautiful and overpowering. One can barely imagine the heart singing
more gratefully with the joie de vivre experienced in Cassis on a
beautiful summer day!
 |
| Les Calanques, Cassis |
To leave tomorrow is something I avoid
thinking about ... enjoying the moments while here and knowing that
someday I will return to this beautiful country. My photos help explain
where my words fall short. The expectations of my life, the hopes of
experiences here in France, have been more than fulfilled.
Merci, cher France et tous mes amis ici. Je reviens!
[apologies for the
low resolution photos .. these were transferred from an old website and
will be updated to high resolution ASAP]
~
