Showing posts with label Lyon. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lyon. Show all posts

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

2016 France * Lyon * September 24-28

“You - you alone will have the stars as no one else has them...
In one of the stars I shall be living. In one of them I shall be laughing. 
And so it will be as if all the stars were laughing, when you look at the sky at night...
You - only you - will have stars that can laugh.” 
 
  ~ Antoine de Saint-Exupéry,
Le Petit Prince
Lyon, from Caluire et Cuire
Mist, in the early rays of the morning, sits in the crannies of the city far below.  Swallows play tag over the trees, whose tip tops are also beneath the balcony where I sit.  The birds fly, just for the joy of soaring.  I look directly east into the rising sun and it makes everything even more hazy and magical.

Red balcony table and chairs
Agnès and Pat.  Wonderful friends - the kind you do not see for ages but immediately it is like you have never been apart.  Like family.  (And, yes, I am referred to as “la cousine americaine”.)



Coffee and a great “pan de compagne” (country bread) on the balcony, sitting at the tiny red café table, my friends, this couple, are always happy, always teasing … so comfortable with each other.  And easy-going with me. When I make ridiculous mistakes with my French, or I am tired and cannot think straight, she is so patient and understanding.  He will chuckle and tease.  She asks something about the bread, which I think is “have you had your bread yet?” to which I answer, “pas encore” (not yet), and she laughs.  Then repeats:  “may we have some of YOUR bread?”  Then I laugh.  Of course!  Here they generously share their home, food, and lives with me, and she asks me if I will share my meager bread which I’d bought yesterday at the boulangerie.  
Les Puces Flea Market

The three of us visit Les Puces - the best flea market!  It is said that it is better than the one in Paris.  There are amazing unique items.  (I did not get any vintage linen sheets, as usual, however.  Not yet anyway).

Les Puces items
Amazing antiques or just old stuff.  There is a brand new restaurant there - the latest cuisine - which reveals the popularity of this giant, permanent garage sale.  

"Turkish" toilet
Passing the "toilettes" I decide to take advantage .. but once I open the stall door, I quickly change my mind.  I wasn't that desperate.



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Lyon sunrise over Mont Blanc
The sun rose over the mountains in the distance this morning with the new moon holding water above - just a sliver, like a thin spoon, with earth light gently glowing on the remainder of the orb.

Layers of low, gentle hills flow toward the mountains in the distant east like waves on a lake.  The golden morning mist again nestles between the mounds, defining each individually as they flow toward Mont Blanc.  

Ninth floor condo, high on a hillside .. again.  It seems I attract staying on mountain and hillsides.

Evening western light
Far below I see the bend of the blue-green Rhône.  Ah, the Rhône.  Behind me to the west the warm sunlight reflects off the French urban homes that are tumbled together and illuminates my bedroom.


Former estate below
The most impressive house around is just below on the east side.  It is what remains of the former estate upon which most of these surrounding 1970s apartment buildings lie.  Now divided into apartments itself, the house remains true to its classic exterior image and the gardens are still maintained as a park.
 



Facebook Photo Album for Lyon:  


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Thursday, March 12, 2015

2015 FRANCE * Lyon (March 10)

"The city disappears street by street as you enter it." 
 ~Ian Seed


La Passerelle
I really do believe my French is improving.  I don’t really try much, I must admit.  I don’t study, I don’t make a huge effort, I just try to be pragmatic.  I do write down new words (well, some new words).  I am at the point of writing down those words that are too similar to me, those that somehow get confused in my mind.  (I remember reaching this point in Spanish)  I also can basically understand just about just about everything I hear.  Trying also to pick up some new “très Français” phrases. Agnès and Pat help a lot.  Such a great couple, teasing and kidding around all the time – and so obviously in love.  Part of something I am expecting for myself … 

La Basilique Fourvrière



Discovering and rediscovering so many places in this varied city.  Vieux Lyon, La Fouvrière, la Croix Rousse, the Gallo-Roman ruins, Le Parc de la Tête d’Or, the Museum of Confluences, and some new spots around the city where Pat and Agnès take me on the weekend.  L’ile Barbe, Aviron, Villefranche, Chazay d’Azergues (the golden town).



Parc de la Tête d'Or
I love the Parc de la Tête d’Or with its blue-green, glacier tinted pond and streams, the tall plantain trees, the free zoo and botanical parks, the solitude in spots and the busy families in others.  The little rowboats painted to match the water, the “Rosalies” are double-bike carts, the wide lawns and artistic corners with quaint buildings, and the open zoo.  Even now in winter the park is alive with people, their children and dogs, flowers, trees, swans, geese, and other birds.  The zoo is open and the Botanical garden as well – although just not quite as lush as the summer obviously, things are still in bloom.   The aroma of the earth of Lyon is different from that of Maine.  The criss-cross of jet air streams mark the sky.  The black and white magpie that seems to be everywhere.


Le Musée des Confluences


Le Musée des Confluences
The Musée des Confluences.  The first time in Lyon I was surprised, while taking one of those touristic boat rides in the river with friends, that there was no marker where the Saône and Rhône Rivers merge … they just simply, since the beginning of their time, merge at the end of a sandy point with sparse grass.   
Now there is a beautiful modern museum.  The exterior is glass and steel in geometric shapes which converge to create the illusion of organic flowing of water and the whirlpools of the rivers.  It’s an amazing architectural construction, reaching high and with complexities of structure.  I start at the top floor to get an overview of the city from there and to have a café and juice at the rooftop café.  The coffee is so-so, but the juice is nectar of apricot.  It’s like drinking a pure apricot smoothie.  Amazing.  Beautiful views of the city.  The Rhône from here takes on a deeper aqua tone.

Au Musée des Confluences
 Musée des Confluences
Le Musée des Confluences


The two stories below are the permanent exhibitions.  Very well organized and presented with exceptional lighting and backgrounds.  Basically the collection and organization of an influential man in Lyon years ago. Now it belongs to the city.  



Wednesday, March 04, 2015

2015 FRANCE * Lyon (March 3)


Lyon, France - March 3


No city should be too large for a man to walk out of in a morning.  
~Cyril Connolly


I walked as long as possible from the Parcours train/bus station to Abrial’s at 5:30am – but it didn’t take long enough.  I took my suitcase and tired feet around a couple more blocks – it was good to get moving after twelve hours of not.  Still … very tired.  I stopped and had “un café” (for us: an espresso) and on the way to the house I picked up a fresh baguette at the corner bakery nearby where Pat gets one every day.  I knew it would be eaten.  Hugs, greetings, and they were off to work.  
 I passed out for a couple hours trying to get adjusted.  Up, laundry, basic groceries a few blocks away, hang up laundry and out for a walk to Parc de la Tête d'Or.  Its about 55 and sunny – not what the weather forecast had said – I was expecting rain and 40s.  I am still tired so I am “back home working on photos and blog.  Dinner when they’re home and an early night for this one.  Tomorrow: new adventures!



In 2010, my first experience in France (a place I’d been long to visit since I was a teen and again, especially, when I was about 25, but actually didn’t arrive until I was in my fifties) was here in Lyon at this house. There are blog entries from this time with older photos but you have to go into my Blog Archives (at the end of the entries)

view from my room
So warm and inviting is this couple, I immediately felt at home, good friends, and rather like a distant cousin.  My French was a major struggle then, and they had patience with me.  It’s still not great, but is significantly improved.  They brought me into their daily lives and activities and we have become good friends.  My third visit here.  The walk from the bus to the house was no problem.  I know this city.  In 2010 I spent hours and hours just roaming, exploring, and discovering the streets.  Sometimes alone.  Sometimes with my French class friends Sigrid and Lisa (Austrian and Italian). 



Parc de la Tête d'Or
I ponder why I enjoy this city so much – me who does not like big cities for the most part (and this vies for second-largest in France with Marseilles).  Today as I strolled back from the Parc de la Tête d'Or, I considered this.  One aspect is all the smaller cities within the city:  the Center Presqu’île shopping district with Place Bellecour (public square), the Vieux Lyon is the medieval section with Greco-Roman ruins, the Fourvière hill with the beautiful Basilica crowning the city, the Croix Rousse on the opposite hill with historic silk factory shops, the extensive Parc de la Tête d'Or with a full and free zoo, the neighborhood of older residential buildings (where we are) with barges along the river used as homes or restaurants, and the urban center Part-Dieu with newer buildings, shopping areas, and a major train terminal (there are two in this city).    A person can wander the various segments of the city and feel like you are in a totally different city.  It’s so easy to get around by walking or bus or metro.  And probably the most beautiful aspects of this city for me, besides the white buildings and often bright blue skies, are the two rivers that embrace the central section of the city like loving arms:  the Rhône and the Saone.  The waters bring life and mountain air to refresh the city with their energy and then converge at the lower end of the city to continue on as the Rhône.

Le Rhône River and the Croix Rousse neighborhood, Lyon


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