Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts

Friday, October 07, 2016

2016 France * Sensory Input * October 5 & 7

“If  'seeing is believing' what happened to taste, touch, sound and smell ? 
Did our creator really intend to favour sight over the other senses ? 
 I don't believe so.”   ~ Alex Morritt, Impromptu Scribe
 
Chemin de Payenché

Forest primeval. So calm so silent. In the gully not a man made sound can be heard. Not even in the far distance. Some birds chirping, bugs buzzing by, the whisper of a bird's wings as it flies past. Even the gentle final fall of brown leaves from the high tangled trees.  

Green, gray and black the forest. Russet and cocoa the path floor, weak sunlight finding tiny holes to pierce through but not getting far, rarely finding a mark on the ground. Hidden rocks clothed in heavy moss. Tiny yellow leaves curl and dry on the path. 

Dark green English ivy carpets the forest floor and finds its parasitical path up the unsuspecting tree trunks.  Huge brick colored slugs longer and fatter than my finger.  A tiny brown snake slithers away. Unyielding flint stones fill old stream beds. 
 
And the silence overwhelms my ears. 










Périgueux Concert

Commanding, discordant notes within the deep registry of the piano fill the concert hall.  The pianist chronicles the saga of another pianist’s life and, during these moments, the devastating tragedy of war. 

Pascal Amoyel manipulates the keys and strings of the instrument, from the most guttural chords to the most tender, barely discernible notes.  He relates the life of György Cziffra, Hungarian virtuoso pianist and composer;  the music enters our ears and penetrates our soul with the expressive monologue and playing of Pascal:  Early promise of a gifted life, schism and loss during war, eventual rediscovery and triumph.   

“The Pianist with 50 fingers.”  Liszt, Schumann, Gershwin, Chopin, and the powerful “Carillon de Chérence” by Oliver Greif (the first composition mentioned) along with manipulation of the strings with fingers and a rubber mallet reaching within the piano to create the sound of a train.  All these blended within a woven monologue that draws us into this life story.

Transcendent. 








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Monday, October 03, 2016

2016 France * The Orchard * October 3

"Death has come for me many times but finds me always in my lovely garden 
and leaves me there, I think, as an excuse to return." 
~Robert Brault, quoting an aunt



Hanging, like tiny tempting breasts, from within the huge palm-shaped leaves, the figs wait.  It is the purple ones we want.  Those that are slightly soft to the touch.  Too soft and it is best to leave them for the wasps.  Grab the top of the stalk and twist slightly and they should fall gently into our hand.  Patience: it takes a bit of time - and some reaching high into the branches of this ancient, widespread tree – to gather enough to fill the basket.  

At Chez Poète in the garden, the home of Vivi’s grandmother, now often barred and bare, so silent and still, it collects cobwebs and flies until some family member comes to visit, opens wide the big heavy doors and huge windows, pushes aside the heavy wooden shutters to let in warm sunlight and bright fresh breezes.  For a few hours.



The white house beckons as we approach on the long white driveway.  Like thick railroad tracks, the ruts are wide and filled with crushed limestone.  They lead us in one-point perspective toward the house.  Huge, lush geranium plants are everywhere:  vibrant crimson and bright spring green, effusive in the warm October sun.  They edge and accent the house.  The cadmium red complements the cerulean blue of the well house where the black craggy grapevine clings (blue on the white limestone from years of a sulfur treatment to protect the vine).  White house, warm-toned wood shutters, russet tiled roof, scarlet geraniums, and bright green grass and amber cornfields as a backdrop create a striking image.


Magazine article about Vivi's grandfather

This is the home on the hill, built of limestone blocks and flint rocks, where her grandfather would bring amazing varieties of mushrooms (for which he was renowned).  An American writer once did a piece on him in a U.S. magazine.  There is a copy of it in the house still.  Photos of his gentle, laughing face, along with that of his joyous wife, and his heavy, gnarled hands holding softly the deep-wood treasures.  Thoughts and memories of this come to my mind each time we come up the driveway.   

Vivi's grandmother
Grandmother sitting quietly in the corner chair, the sunlight streaming through the window onto her silver hair and her busy, expressive hands.  These hands are those that spent countless winter hours embroidering sheets and tablecloths, and crocheting beautiful bedspreads and table runners.  Linen and cotton.  Both delicate and strong at the same time.  Thick and rich patterns which are works of art.  When I sleep in a bed with these sheets and bedspreads, deep within I feel the comfort, safety, and love that Grandmother infused with her blessings.  It is a feeling beyond tactile .. it is a spiritual touch.



Hazlenuts from the orchard
Ah!  Back to the garden!  Fruit and nut trees planted four or five generations ago.  We gather six kilos of figs in a basket.  Now we notice that the hazelnut tree offers its tiny gifts as well.  Vivi has not seen it laden like this before.  We pick up those on the ground and toss away the ones with the tiny drill holes (that indicated something as already had the pleasure of eating what was within).  We tug on any in the tree still that will come easily.  These are still covered with a tiny, ruffled skirt that twists off when they are ripe.  We have perhaps a pint in the basket.



The walnut tree is not yet ready to give up its fruit, that is to come a bit later, but I do find one that has a cracked green casing that grows around the shell .. it yields one ripe walnut within.  Two aged, twisted and misshapen vines proffer a few bunches of the sweetest green grapes I have ever tasted.  

There is something about the food in France.  It has Soul.  Soul from the land here, the sun and water, the history of the earth.  Each province has its own specialty, its unique flavors, but they all have deep, rich Soul.   Fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses and breads.  Grown and produced in the small farms and gardens and kitchens of stone cottages.  Oh, and the wines and aperitifs!  They inherit their taste from the grapes, and the grapes from the earth, the sunlight, and the rain.

 
figs cooking

fig compote
Late in the afternoon we drive the scenic back roads to arrive home at Payenché (in Périgueux) at sunset.  A dozen jars of fig confiture (jam) are made from half the fig harvest.  The sweet green grapes are set aside for dessert.


 
Another blessed day in France.
 
a girl and her dad

Facebook Photo Album:  Repeat: 2016 Périgueux, France. (#1)


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Sunday, October 02, 2016

2016 France * Périgueux & Food * October 2

"If you really want to make a friend, go to someone’s house and eat with him… 
the people who give you their food give you their heart.” 
-Cesar Chavez

Payenché de mon Coeur!

 

Laying in the sunny grass of the orchard, far from the house, it is so quiet.  I actually hear a fly land on a dry leaf beside me and hear his tiny footsteps as he explores the territory.  Warm sun, quiet October breeze.  A huge yellow and green dragonfly experiments with patterns in the air.  If he lands on me, I have good luck.  That is what my granddaughter says.   A leaf flutters down and lands on my chest.  A heart-shaped golden leaf.  Seriously.  A heart.





It is Sunday afternoon and we prepare a classic French family dinner.  First, a choice of aperitifs:  either Floc, a reinforced wine from the Les Landes region in extreme southwest corner of France, or some of Vivi and Denis’ homemade walnut wine, made from the unripe liquid part of a walnut that eventually becomes the nut itself, mixed with alcohol and wine and aged for two years before being enjoyed.



Then the hearty country bread, cut from a large round loaf, along with black sanglier sausage (wild boar) or a foie gras and pork paté mix.  When this is eaten and followed by the wine, it creates a completely new flavor in your mouth – quite different from each one alone.  Magic!



Now on to a 2008 local Bergerac red wine.  Two years ago I could find some Bergerac in Maine, but for nearly a year now they have disappeared.  The vineyards are not huge so exportation is less for these independents.   Ah, well, there are Cahors wines – a close region. 



French law forbids wine to have less than 12% alcohol.  Interesting.  Also interesting is that it is illegal to water a vineyard in France.  This can be problematic for young plants, but a 40 year old vine, after years of searching deeply for water, can attain a depth of 30 meters underground.  That’s 90 feet down for the roots.  All the flavor of a wine comes from this soil, the minerals, the rain and sun and air.  This delicious glass of wine needs to be well respected for its courage and history.



Traveling mini-mart
Next up: rotisserie chicken (yes, Vivi’s oven does rotisserie – she also has a combination gas and induction stove – cooking for family is serious business), grilled potatoes with cheese and a fresh green salad.  Denis offers “un petit fond” (just a bit) of wine which highlights breaks in the conversation.  There is no rush.  Talk of travel, food, politics, family .. so relaxed and constantly changing.  Vivi and I pick up a bit, then return to the table with Basque country cheeses: chevre and brebis (goat and sheep).  More “pan de compagne” (the meaty country bread).  It is so fresh that it is difficult to slice.  We picked it up this morning in the little van that comes into Périgueux from about twenty minutes away.  Vivi knows exactly where to find the good stuff. 



A bit more wine as we finish the cheese and bread.  More conversation.  Then a wonderful, flaky pastry from Bretagne.  Amazing.  And so simple.  Denis and Vivi brought it back with them the night before last after a visit there with her uncle.  She warmed it just slightly in the oven.   

Walnut wine
A strong, black, French-press coffee.  Denis prepares it just so – he has a specific process and timing.  His sister-in-law reaches over to expedite, but he stops her.  He will not allow the brewing be rushed.  One tiny cup is enough.  However, after a couple more topics of conversation pass, and another taste of that pastry, I request just one more tiny cup.



Ah, les français.













Facebook Photo Album:  2016 Périgueux, France. (#1)

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Saturday, October 01, 2016

2016 France * OuiBus * October 1


Ouibus from Lyon to Périgueux and flashes of thought:

Hey!  WiFi on the bus! And power outlet and USB port!  Pretty sure I put all my cords in my big suitcase that's below. Maybe not. I'll wait until I need it. Pretty modern and brand new bus.

This countryside is SO, SO BEAUTIFUL.  Like going to Vermont in the summer but with stone cottages dotting the landscape everywhere!!  

The bus drivers flash their lights at each other. Nice. 
 
I always considered areas of Europe, like France, would be totally cared for, controlled land. But there are many large areas that are still wild. Forests and vast fields, not totally naturally wild, but a "managed" wild, it seems. Still, so much open area.  

Hey! Rest areas!  A winding river. A blue heron flying high above. Sunflower fields where the heads are black and heavily hanging down and corn fields dying. Some harvested. Some not. 

Through Clermont-Fernand. A clean and well organized city. I'm impressed. Again. Then up and up over a mountain on a fresh black highway. Tall spruce, mist, and many round-abouts. Those wonderful gray stone homes. Some stucco, too, painted butter yellow, soft rust, beige.  Fields, white cattle, hay cylinders. Down, down the west side now.   In the distance beyond the valley, more hills and mountains. Dramatic gray and white fluffy clouds create extra beauty to the landscape.  


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Thursday, September 29, 2016

2016 France * Annecy * September 29

"I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” 
~ Susan Sontag
 
 
These are intense mountains through which the train tracks pass. The protruding ledges, tree covered, tiny towns.  Occasionally, seemingly in the middle of nowhere, there will be the ruin of a medieval stonewall running up the spine of a hill or a pillar with some statue atop.  Or a glimpse of a chateau on a hill, quickly obscured by passing trees or a mountain tunnel. 

I am adventuring out of Lyon on my own.  While searching nearby sites, I notice that Annecy gets a “must see” rating – top for a day trip out of the lion city.  My friend Agnès gives it her total support as well.  Just 45€ round trip on this absolutely beautiful, clear autumn day.  

I'm happily expectant! I get to adventure in a part of France I've yet to know.  Annecy.  So close to Switzerland.
 
"Petillante", the man called me. 

I didn’t know what it meant!  He graciously offered to guide me around town.  I graciously declined.  “Américaine” he stated.  Ah, my accent.  Later I learn that “petillante” means bubbly, effervescent, like champagne.

Eh ben.  How can one be otherwise on a perfectly gorgeous day in Annecy?

Blue-green waters of the canals and lake, accented with white swans, grey rough-stoned mountains, white boats and flower boxes of cadmium red and spring green.  The medieval stone buildings are golden and russet with black iron gates and lamp posts that hold amber glass.   

Gray mountains rim the opposite shore.  Varied, sheer cliffs, jagged of grey limestone, like the calanques of Cassis, deteriorated fallen rock covered with a variety of trees. Lakeside, the Park de l'Europe has been well cared for with trees hundreds of years old. Magnificent in girth and height. Marked with tiny tags as to genus and species. A friendly park, with a lovers’ bridge, benches and grassy lawns for locals to sit have a leisurely lunch.  

The older, now tourist, section of town area has well-lived buildings from the medieval era. A castle fortress on a hilltop. All the canals are lined with beautiful flower plantings.  Crimson geraniums, violet pansies, white accents with bright green leaves. Each tiny window is a photo-worthy image. The cobblestone streets are original stone and very clean.  Restaurants abound and unique stores for clothes, crafts and, surprisingly, very few tourist trinkets. 
 
An artist's treasure trove of images. 

Walking the alleyway Rousseau, where the music conservatory pours piano concertos out the windows, I decide upon a small restaurant, a street away from the popular ones along the canal. Quiche Lorraine and a green salad. Simple and good with a light flaky crust and plenty of ham.  Two pieces, not one. My table with the backdrop of stone buildings make a quaint photo. 
 
A final walk through the tiny picturesque streets, a stop for the most amazing gelato de Maître (cassis and crème brûlée in a house-made waffle cone), and then to the lake for some final shots with different lighting for my photos. School children were out with their instructors in some sort of large canoe-boats practicing team paddling. Locals on lunch breaks are still eating and socializing in the park. Tourists peppered in.  An absolutely perfect afternoon in Annecy.  

I concur.  Annecy is a “must see”. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Facebook Photo Album for Annecy:  
 
 
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Wednesday, September 28, 2016

2016 France * Lyon * September 24-28

“You - you alone will have the stars as no one else has them...
In one of the stars I shall be living. In one of them I shall be laughing. 
And so it will be as if all the stars were laughing, when you look at the sky at night...
You - only you - will have stars that can laugh.” 
 
  ~ Antoine de Saint-Exupéry,
Le Petit Prince
Lyon, from Caluire et Cuire
Mist, in the early rays of the morning, sits in the crannies of the city far below.  Swallows play tag over the trees, whose tip tops are also beneath the balcony where I sit.  The birds fly, just for the joy of soaring.  I look directly east into the rising sun and it makes everything even more hazy and magical.

Red balcony table and chairs
Agnès and Pat.  Wonderful friends - the kind you do not see for ages but immediately it is like you have never been apart.  Like family.  (And, yes, I am referred to as “la cousine americaine”.)



Coffee and a great “pan de compagne” (country bread) on the balcony, sitting at the tiny red café table, my friends, this couple, are always happy, always teasing … so comfortable with each other.  And easy-going with me. When I make ridiculous mistakes with my French, or I am tired and cannot think straight, she is so patient and understanding.  He will chuckle and tease.  She asks something about the bread, which I think is “have you had your bread yet?” to which I answer, “pas encore” (not yet), and she laughs.  Then repeats:  “may we have some of YOUR bread?”  Then I laugh.  Of course!  Here they generously share their home, food, and lives with me, and she asks me if I will share my meager bread which I’d bought yesterday at the boulangerie.  
Les Puces Flea Market

The three of us visit Les Puces - the best flea market!  It is said that it is better than the one in Paris.  There are amazing unique items.  (I did not get any vintage linen sheets, as usual, however.  Not yet anyway).

Les Puces items
Amazing antiques or just old stuff.  There is a brand new restaurant there - the latest cuisine - which reveals the popularity of this giant, permanent garage sale.  

"Turkish" toilet
Passing the "toilettes" I decide to take advantage .. but once I open the stall door, I quickly change my mind.  I wasn't that desperate.



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Lyon sunrise over Mont Blanc
The sun rose over the mountains in the distance this morning with the new moon holding water above - just a sliver, like a thin spoon, with earth light gently glowing on the remainder of the orb.

Layers of low, gentle hills flow toward the mountains in the distant east like waves on a lake.  The golden morning mist again nestles between the mounds, defining each individually as they flow toward Mont Blanc.  

Ninth floor condo, high on a hillside .. again.  It seems I attract staying on mountain and hillsides.

Evening western light
Far below I see the bend of the blue-green Rhône.  Ah, the Rhône.  Behind me to the west the warm sunlight reflects off the French urban homes that are tumbled together and illuminates my bedroom.


Former estate below
The most impressive house around is just below on the east side.  It is what remains of the former estate upon which most of these surrounding 1970s apartment buildings lie.  Now divided into apartments itself, the house remains true to its classic exterior image and the gardens are still maintained as a park.
 



Facebook Photo Album for Lyon:  


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