Showing posts with label family. Show all posts
Showing posts with label family. Show all posts

Friday, February 03, 2017

2017 Ecuador * Away * February 3

"… Now the sun
Is once again nearing the horizon, and the days
Of my life are shortening, and I dream of the things
That once made me feel so alive..."

~ Greg Barden, from Ballet on the Beach


Away

Mom is back at MMC again after one night home.  Usually I'm at peace when she has a medical episode ... she always bounces back so quickly ... but this one feels different. I keep trying to get my emotions centered.   

My granddaughter’s birthday this week. She’s six.  I am missing my grandson, too, who is growing so fast.  Besides lamenting all this, I'm having trouble getting involved in interesting things to do this time here in Cuenca. I enjoy long hikes, activities, and hanging with my gringo roomies here, but I crave more variety and time with locals to improve my personal Spanish and experiences.

I had planned to spend a week at a beach at Punto Lopez and then a few days in Guayaquil, but I have misgivings now, as my mother’s health is slow to improve. What does make the coastal visit essential is that it will probably be the last time to visit my host mother (of my first visit in 1972); knowing that after this visit I probably won't make it a priority to come back to Ecuador for a while.    

So much is beautiful here but on the list of pros and cons I am making, my sentiment is leaning away from return here any time soon. 

I continue to struggle against depression and often feel I’m without ambition or goals. Not sure if it's my age or something else…  this does not usually occur when I travel.

And then, serendipitously, there's the enlightening moment as I sit atop the Inca ruins of Pumapungo hill, above the rivers, where the air is fresh, with a soft breeze, a warm caressing sun, and the city sounds are so far below.  Near perfection.



 Facebook photo album 2017 Ecuador #2: 


Ecuador still a top retirement place info: 



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Monday, October 03, 2016

2016 France * The Orchard * October 3

"Death has come for me many times but finds me always in my lovely garden 
and leaves me there, I think, as an excuse to return." 
~Robert Brault, quoting an aunt



Hanging, like tiny tempting breasts, from within the huge palm-shaped leaves, the figs wait.  It is the purple ones we want.  Those that are slightly soft to the touch.  Too soft and it is best to leave them for the wasps.  Grab the top of the stalk and twist slightly and they should fall gently into our hand.  Patience: it takes a bit of time - and some reaching high into the branches of this ancient, widespread tree – to gather enough to fill the basket.  

At Chez Poète in the garden, the home of Vivi’s grandmother, now often barred and bare, so silent and still, it collects cobwebs and flies until some family member comes to visit, opens wide the big heavy doors and huge windows, pushes aside the heavy wooden shutters to let in warm sunlight and bright fresh breezes.  For a few hours.



The white house beckons as we approach on the long white driveway.  Like thick railroad tracks, the ruts are wide and filled with crushed limestone.  They lead us in one-point perspective toward the house.  Huge, lush geranium plants are everywhere:  vibrant crimson and bright spring green, effusive in the warm October sun.  They edge and accent the house.  The cadmium red complements the cerulean blue of the well house where the black craggy grapevine clings (blue on the white limestone from years of a sulfur treatment to protect the vine).  White house, warm-toned wood shutters, russet tiled roof, scarlet geraniums, and bright green grass and amber cornfields as a backdrop create a striking image.


Magazine article about Vivi's grandfather

This is the home on the hill, built of limestone blocks and flint rocks, where her grandfather would bring amazing varieties of mushrooms (for which he was renowned).  An American writer once did a piece on him in a U.S. magazine.  There is a copy of it in the house still.  Photos of his gentle, laughing face, along with that of his joyous wife, and his heavy, gnarled hands holding softly the deep-wood treasures.  Thoughts and memories of this come to my mind each time we come up the driveway.   

Vivi's grandmother
Grandmother sitting quietly in the corner chair, the sunlight streaming through the window onto her silver hair and her busy, expressive hands.  These hands are those that spent countless winter hours embroidering sheets and tablecloths, and crocheting beautiful bedspreads and table runners.  Linen and cotton.  Both delicate and strong at the same time.  Thick and rich patterns which are works of art.  When I sleep in a bed with these sheets and bedspreads, deep within I feel the comfort, safety, and love that Grandmother infused with her blessings.  It is a feeling beyond tactile .. it is a spiritual touch.



Hazlenuts from the orchard
Ah!  Back to the garden!  Fruit and nut trees planted four or five generations ago.  We gather six kilos of figs in a basket.  Now we notice that the hazelnut tree offers its tiny gifts as well.  Vivi has not seen it laden like this before.  We pick up those on the ground and toss away the ones with the tiny drill holes (that indicated something as already had the pleasure of eating what was within).  We tug on any in the tree still that will come easily.  These are still covered with a tiny, ruffled skirt that twists off when they are ripe.  We have perhaps a pint in the basket.



The walnut tree is not yet ready to give up its fruit, that is to come a bit later, but I do find one that has a cracked green casing that grows around the shell .. it yields one ripe walnut within.  Two aged, twisted and misshapen vines proffer a few bunches of the sweetest green grapes I have ever tasted.  

There is something about the food in France.  It has Soul.  Soul from the land here, the sun and water, the history of the earth.  Each province has its own specialty, its unique flavors, but they all have deep, rich Soul.   Fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses and breads.  Grown and produced in the small farms and gardens and kitchens of stone cottages.  Oh, and the wines and aperitifs!  They inherit their taste from the grapes, and the grapes from the earth, the sunlight, and the rain.

 
figs cooking

fig compote
Late in the afternoon we drive the scenic back roads to arrive home at Payenché (in Périgueux) at sunset.  A dozen jars of fig confiture (jam) are made from half the fig harvest.  The sweet green grapes are set aside for dessert.


 
Another blessed day in France.
 
a girl and her dad

Facebook Photo Album:  Repeat: 2016 Périgueux, France. (#1)


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Sunday, October 02, 2016

2016 France * Périgueux & Food * October 2

"If you really want to make a friend, go to someone’s house and eat with him… 
the people who give you their food give you their heart.” 
-Cesar Chavez

Payenché de mon Coeur!

 

Laying in the sunny grass of the orchard, far from the house, it is so quiet.  I actually hear a fly land on a dry leaf beside me and hear his tiny footsteps as he explores the territory.  Warm sun, quiet October breeze.  A huge yellow and green dragonfly experiments with patterns in the air.  If he lands on me, I have good luck.  That is what my granddaughter says.   A leaf flutters down and lands on my chest.  A heart-shaped golden leaf.  Seriously.  A heart.





It is Sunday afternoon and we prepare a classic French family dinner.  First, a choice of aperitifs:  either Floc, a reinforced wine from the Les Landes region in extreme southwest corner of France, or some of Vivi and Denis’ homemade walnut wine, made from the unripe liquid part of a walnut that eventually becomes the nut itself, mixed with alcohol and wine and aged for two years before being enjoyed.



Then the hearty country bread, cut from a large round loaf, along with black sanglier sausage (wild boar) or a foie gras and pork paté mix.  When this is eaten and followed by the wine, it creates a completely new flavor in your mouth – quite different from each one alone.  Magic!



Now on to a 2008 local Bergerac red wine.  Two years ago I could find some Bergerac in Maine, but for nearly a year now they have disappeared.  The vineyards are not huge so exportation is less for these independents.   Ah, well, there are Cahors wines – a close region. 



French law forbids wine to have less than 12% alcohol.  Interesting.  Also interesting is that it is illegal to water a vineyard in France.  This can be problematic for young plants, but a 40 year old vine, after years of searching deeply for water, can attain a depth of 30 meters underground.  That’s 90 feet down for the roots.  All the flavor of a wine comes from this soil, the minerals, the rain and sun and air.  This delicious glass of wine needs to be well respected for its courage and history.



Traveling mini-mart
Next up: rotisserie chicken (yes, Vivi’s oven does rotisserie – she also has a combination gas and induction stove – cooking for family is serious business), grilled potatoes with cheese and a fresh green salad.  Denis offers “un petit fond” (just a bit) of wine which highlights breaks in the conversation.  There is no rush.  Talk of travel, food, politics, family .. so relaxed and constantly changing.  Vivi and I pick up a bit, then return to the table with Basque country cheeses: chevre and brebis (goat and sheep).  More “pan de compagne” (the meaty country bread).  It is so fresh that it is difficult to slice.  We picked it up this morning in the little van that comes into Périgueux from about twenty minutes away.  Vivi knows exactly where to find the good stuff. 



A bit more wine as we finish the cheese and bread.  More conversation.  Then a wonderful, flaky pastry from Bretagne.  Amazing.  And so simple.  Denis and Vivi brought it back with them the night before last after a visit there with her uncle.  She warmed it just slightly in the oven.   

Walnut wine
A strong, black, French-press coffee.  Denis prepares it just so – he has a specific process and timing.  His sister-in-law reaches over to expedite, but he stops her.  He will not allow the brewing be rushed.  One tiny cup is enough.  However, after a couple more topics of conversation pass, and another taste of that pastry, I request just one more tiny cup.



Ah, les français.













Facebook Photo Album:  2016 Périgueux, France. (#1)

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