2015 SPAIN * Valencia
"Half the fun of the travel is the esthetic of lostness." ~Ray Bradbury
France to Spain to Italy:
Yes, RyanAir is inexpensive - it will be less than $50 to fly from Valencia to Bologna next Tuesday - but I have had to leave all art supplies and much else behind in Payenché. The suitcase is required to be tinier than carry-on and only a purse besides. I was hoping to take a backpack, but, no. And the weight limit was another ... well ... limitation. Ah, well. It is all a great adventure! Camera, laptop, iPhone are the electronics. And my small heated curlers, because they also serve as temporary bed-warmers (good to have on a damp, cool night).
February 16: Valencia, Spain
I cannot imagine living for over 35 years in what I would
term an apartment that generally has closed shades except for the living room
where there is a small sliding glass door to get out onto the balcony. Small
rooms, dark hallway, shades drawn – heavy shades as if someone could try to
enter this place on the third floor. (Of course, that is my personal impression but these
heavy blinds are typical here. As
is what we might call an apartment, for them is their home.) It’s a well-cared-for home, but
definitely not for me! Camila is
nice, my age, and outgoing. Very
friendly and generous – we have had a couple breakfasts together, but then to
our separate ways.
I arrived via Covoiturage with a two women (who reminded me
of Jill and Keyly a lot): Katia and Sabine. We drove from Bordeaux to Valencia after they had come from
Paris. It was a long ride and
Katia was tired. There was heavy rain at times and through the mountains there
was snow on the sides of the road – she is not accustomed to snow. The temperature was up enough to be
just rain on the surface thankfully and the highway was modern. It must be beautiful through that part
of Spain during daylight without heavy clouds. I could catch glimpses of the landscape but not much. Basque country. Katia and Sabine would smoke
hand-rolled cigarettes occasionally, asking me if it was ok (what was I to say? “no”?!), with the windows cracked. They had brought a picnic cooler full
of food and shared some with me, since I had not eaten while waiting the four
hours at the Bordeaux train station. They played good music but loudly –
partially to keep Katia awake and focused. We arrived four hours later than planned. Mix-ups with a couple that had come
with them from Paris to Bordeaux and within Bordeaux, and a bit of a “GPS is
too late” tour of Pamplona. It put everyone else behind but the heaviest load
was on Katia. She didn’t complain
and did all she could to drive well.
Believe me, at times I kept my eyes on her rear-view mirror. I had chosen an Airbnb (with Camila)
close to the highway that goes around Valencia, but the GPS took us through the
city. Sabine spoke both French and
Spanish, so my head was totally confused by the time we arrived and we were all
exhausted.
Covoiturage is difficult when one does not have a cell phone
that works in the country – so that you can text or call for the final
last-minute arrangements. I
finally had to make a phone call with my US phone to meet up with them in
Bordeaux – and it cost me nearly $8.
I need to consider a better way to communicate for the future.
Still – it’s amazing to put yourself in the hands of total
strangers and realize that you are taken care of. These experiences are remarkable.
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| Yes, "STOP"! |
En route I saw a gentleman’s farm “Dubreuil” between
Périgueux and Bordeaux. On the
Garrone River just outside Bordeaux are tiny houses on high stilts beside the
river. I wonder if they are for
fishermen (like ice fishing shacks) or actual homes. Just south of Bordeaux, near Mont de Marsan where it is
flat, the auto route passes through hundreds or thousands of acres of pine
trees that are cultivated and harvested.
Huge piles of logs in areas that have been there so long that they start
to grow grass on top. At
some point further on, in the cornfields, I spot four tiny deer and two
emu-like birds near the Reserve d’Ajunaix. Soon there are no Twelfth Century buildings but many Basque
style houses as we pass through the foothills of the Pyrenees and near the
border between France and Spain.
I’m waiting for Customs. No
customs. I had my passport ready
and everything. Again I wonder. Gas is cheaper in Spain now. We pass San Sebastien and head toward
Pamplona. There is a bit of snow
on the distant mountain and as we pass through tunnels that S-curve through the
mountains, tunnels of stone ceilings left natural, we come upon more snow on
the fields and hills that we pass.
Berastegi, Navarra, and we pass an ancient aqueduct. Villarquemado, Cella, Albarracin. We are in the middle of Spain
somewhere. 22:15 at night. Every 10-20 kilometers or so there is
another town and most of them have, in the center, a medieval tower or church
that is usually lit up. The
Spaniards are proud. Wouldn’t it
be wonderful to see these towns during the day? 22:41 about 100km from Valencia and I just noticed the
stars. Shining brilliantly and
sugar-sprinkled with more distant starts between the bright ones. I don’t think I’ve seen so many stars
in a long time. Then the few red
ones in a curving line near the horizon, lightly winking. Ah! Modern windmills.
Sunday after breakfast with Camila I walked downtown
Valencia to the Old City. I’d been
there a number of times before when I had visited Eva in 2007 and it was
nice. The sun came out, warm (too
warm for what I was wearing – since the morning goes from 45 to about 65 by
afternoon). Not sure of the
distance, but I will Google Map when I have WiFi again … I have to snag WiFi when I stop at a
restaurant or café. Sit down, have
a beer or espresso, and send messages to family and friends to let them know
all is well.
The antique section of the city has beautiful buildings and
carvings and parts of the sidewalk are marble of colors from grey to green to
burgundy and beige. Wow ... marble
for the sidewalk in the Center! I
took a couple panorama photos on my phone to try to catch the impressive
buildings that surround the squares of the city. The sky was a brilliant blue and the clouds were just enough
of cumulus to create an amazing contrast with the buildings and sunlight. It was good to walk after sitting
in a car all day the day before.
(And the day before that, Vivi and a friend Marie Claude and I walked 7
kilometers through the French countryside and small towns – so beautiful). I went to a small local
restaurant for dinner about 8pm just down the street from the apartment here
(Camila went out dancing with friends) and was waiting upon by a young lady who
had lived in Florida for a year and a half. She loved it there.
I gave nothing of my feelings for the State. She was sweet.
I left a tip, American size, but not really sure how tips are considered
here in Spain. I have a good idea
for France, but not so much here.
Eva will tell me.
9:30am. Time
for me to get my things together and head outside to meet up with Eva! New adventures to come!
February 16, midnight
Today Eva and her parents picked me up, took me to the
Abuelita’s home and we met with Juanjo’s parents there. They had cleaned the house that has
been empty since about 2006 when Abuelita died (Juanjo’s grandmother). People are so generous! It’s difficult to convey how nice they
are. Juanjo’s parents and Eva took me shopping for some groceries: oranges, bananas, bread, cheese, and
juice. Eva and I went downtown to
get a map and the chip for the iPhone that they have (older model) so I can use
it to text and call her while here.
It was 10Euro for the chip.
Then she had to go to the office where they are publishing the book for
her Bario for Fallas. She is in
charge of it. It’s like a school
Yearbook with photos and write-ups and archival information that will be given
to those involved in Fallas from her Community. She and the advisor checked all the text and photos to make
any final changes before going to print.
I know how time intensive and detailed all that work can be! Afterward we walked a bit and
went to her house then off to get the boys from school. Mateo first from pre-school (he’s not
quite three years old), then Alejandro (her sister’s son) and Pablo from their
school a few blocks down the street.
All the parents and grandparents wait outside the school entrance on the
sidewalk. There were nearly a
hundred. Then the door is opened
and everyone funnels through a corridor - which is actually under an apartment
building above – and out into the patio area of the school where tons of kids
from five upward are milling around playing and waiting for their relatives to
take them home. I’m not sure how,
but each one seems to find their family member, and with a double kiss (right
cheek then left) ask how the day was, what was special, give them a snack
(usually a bocadillo – a sandwich of thick bread like a baguette, cheese and
ham) and head out through the dark corridor again. Home, play, dinner, and study time for Pablo. He obviously was sick so we took him to
see the doctor and get a prescription.
By the time we got home he was not doing well, but was such a little
gentleman and so mature for his age.
I told her that he’s not a boy but a small man. He stayed home the next day and by the
following day was fine to go back to classes, which fortunately was only a
half-day.
That first evening, Juanjo (Eva’s husband) arrived home,
fixed me up with WiFi plug-in for the Abuelita’s apartment, put the chip in the
old iPhone for texting and calling here, and showed me how to hook it all up
when I got back. It works
great. Again: people are SO helpful and so
generous. He called the taxi with
which, somehow, he has connections, and would NOT let me pay for it. The taxi driver was so nice and had
left his home, after he had already arrived there, to bring me to Abuelita’s. Extraordinary. Since Pablo is sick, I may not
see Eva tomorrow … I’m ready for a
down day. I’ll check the extra
iPhone for the Valencia App tomorrow to see what is available for activities
and things to visit.
Feb 18
Amazing how lost one can feel without WiFi. It worked fine last night after Juanjo
fixed something, but then ran out part way into my conversation with Mom. I didn’t know there was a limitation on
usage – man, am I spoiled with forever unlimited access at home. Now I can’t get anything to
connect. If I can get online –
even if it’s in the middle of the night at home – I feel connected. Connected to the outside world, to home,
to family and friends. Ah,
well. Fine. Just relax, work on the blog
entry for when I do have good WiFi, and get ready to go out. Quick shower (“shower”) in the tiny
bath tub after waiting for the water to warm. I got the small heater to work last night, which was nice,
and I went to bed toasty. Eva and
I will meet up al Centro before the boys are out of their half-day at school.
Spitz.
Fritz. The old electric
wiring in this house couldn’t handle something and a fuse blew. I wasn’t sure how to fix it, although I
thought I found the switch but didn’t want to risk damaging anything, I had to
leave the house “un-finished” (me, unfinished: hair not set). I found a bus to Centro, bought a
coffee, and waited to meet up with Eva at the Ayuntamiento (which is a central
meeting spot and bus drop-off in the center of the city). I watched the buses 72 come and go, but
didn’t see a lady with a stroller descend. After about ten minutes the lady beside me, who had been
busy on her cell (in the corner of my eye), stepped up to me and said “Are you
waiting for someone?!” It was Eva!
We’d been standing side-by-side.
I had known that the boys were at school but I am so used to seeing her
with the stroller that I forgot to look for her without the stroller. And she missed me with my blond hair
somehow. We chuckled over that
one!
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| Fallas on display |
We went to see the Ninots (parade sculptural figures) that
are on display for judging for the Fallas. They always fascinate me. The artistry is beautiful and varied. It is a great opportunity for artists
around the city to acquire a regular income. They can be fun or traditional or even political (there is one of Obama and Putin). Simple, ornate, whatever the people want!
At home, Pablo practiced his school presentation last night
that is spoken in Valenciano. I
could understand part (at first I thought maybe he was just not enunciating his
Spanish well or my brain was on a language glitch, but then I realized he was
speaking another language).
Valenciano is like Catalán, although not exactly, and is a mixture
basically of Spanish and French and a bit of Portuguese and native tongue. So cool! The Fallas activities include traditional costumes,
music, dances, crowing of local Fallas princesses and queens (Fallera infantil
and Fallera mayor).
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| basic creative process |
The creation of a Ninot usually involves the process of the
community choosing an artist’s sketch, the artist carving Styrofoam, refining
it, covering it with a type of papier-mâché, smoothing the surface, then
painting. Originally it was wood
and “carton” (cardboard and paper) but has evolved. I wonder about the burning of these modern materials and the
toxic fumes they produce, but perhaps it is a special type of Styrofoam
produced for this purpose. Then
there is the paint and other decorations as well. Not everyone in the city is involved in the Fallas. It is by choice. Involved members pay a fee toward the
community (barrio) preparations and activities. It can last the whole year but is focused from mid-January
through the first weeks of March culminating around March 19 with fireworks and
the burning of the Fallas.
A couple days of clouds and occasional drizzle haven’t been
the most inviting to wander the city or take photos but I have been walking
anyway. This city is brilliant in
the sunshine. White buildings,
blue skies, dramatic architecture.
The weekend should be great and we have some ideas: the Zoo, with Pablo as my guide (he
loves animals), the beach (not to swim, but to enjoy), and other places around
the city. Tuesday, very early, I
fly to Bologna. These days are
going faster than expected. I had considered going south for a day or so but
the weather is worse there. This
is the best weather in the country now.
My plans had been firm to visit the Pacific beach at Puerto
Lopez for a week, then the my host family (from my teens) in Guayaquil - for
what would have been probably my final visit with the mother who is 88 - but
that is changed now. I need to get home to my own mother. I am
procrastinating telling my host sister because I know they will try to talk me
into a quick visit before I leave. It would be too rushed and complicated. No,
gracias, no puedo ya. 
