Italy: Bologna
(Tuesday, February 24)
La Dotta, La Grassa and La Rossa (The Learnéd, The Fat
and The Red)
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| San Stefano and plaza (panorama) |
I took a very early RyanAir plane
from Valencia to Bologna – on three hours’ sleep. Flight was less than two hours over a Mediterranean sea that
went from clear to very cloudy, actually about 3 layers of clouds. Annamaria met me at the airport even
before our arranged spot - so punctual and I was so thankful. We
had met two years ago during one of my school trips to Italy when she was our Tour Guide here in Italy. We had kept in touch since and although
I missed seeing her when she visited New York a couple months ago, she was pleased to
have me come stay with her for a while at her home. It’s pretty awesome to be just walking around a major
historical city like Bologna with a professional tour guide. The information this woman knows about history, art, and architecture is
astronomical! Impressive!
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| Bologna Portico |
It has been very rainy and quite
cool the first couple days here - getting to only about 45F. The next few days are supposed to be partly cloudy and a bit
warmer … but, it IS winter.
There is a small pile of snow in the center city plaza that has been
slowly melting since the beginning of February … it’s pretty much just a tiny
lump of black, grey and lighter grey now.
The city was slow during the day of the storm because few know
how to drive in it. In the surrounding hills many trees lost branches from the heavy weight.
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| Due Torri di Bologna |
One great thing about Bologna is the portico. There are between 50 and 70 kilometers
of porticos in the city – overhanging buildings that cover the sidewalks. Once in town you can walk and
walk with little need of getting rained on. Bologna is highlighted by the Due Torri
di Bologna, the Asinelli and Garisenda, that are two medieval towers that rise above
the center of the city (the larger is about 100
meters, or 318 feet, and the other is half that, they are what is left from
about 180 original towers), the second being incomplete because it started to
tilt during construction, much like the Tower of Pisa.
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| Basilica di San Petronio |
The Bolognese people have a pride of
considering “truth over the bella figura” (a façade of “looking good). Plain brick over imported marble (which
can help explain the comfort with the incomplete Basilica di San
Petronio, which I think is beautiful.
The University of Bologna was established in the 11th
century and is the oldest in Europe. Once established and during the 12th
century there was a major influx of students (and with them money) from all
over the country. These people
needed lodging so local families built rooms that extend out over the sidewalks
creating the porticos that give the city much of its character. There also was an extra wall built
around the city to protect it from invaders who wanted to acquire its
wealth.
The Piazza Maggiore (main
plaza) is the historic center and is one of the best preserved in Italy. Influences of two ruling families
(the Guelphs and the Ghibellines) can be noticed even today by the finishing
designs at the top of the buildings: whether square or sparrow-tailed.
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| Biblioteca Salaborsa |
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| Roman ruins under Biblioteca |
Today there is great care taken when
building or renovating because of the amount of Roman ruins under the
city. The Biblioteca Salaborsa (which
was originally the Stock Market building and is now a library) has a Plexiglas
floor so you can look down through and see the Roman ruins below.
The ancient and complex Santo Stefano (that contains 6
"churches" built from the 4th or 5th century to the 13th century) was
originally built on ancient temple dating from 100-300s.
[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santo_Stefano,_Bologna] (see the first photo near the title) Amazing that buildings like these still stand and even more so - that they are used regularly and are open to the public. I love the alabaster windows that precede glass and stained glass windows. They look like they are solid from the outside, but inside, they let in a subtle, soft light.
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| Basilica San Francesco |
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| Basilica San Francesco |
It seems every other block has a church. In the Franciscan church there is an incredible marble altar piece designed by Pierpaolo and
Jacobello della Masegne, 1388-1392. During WWII this piece was removed to
protect it since the church was used to barrack French soldiers and was
damaged. Later it was repaired and
returned to the church.
We took time to visit the Museo
Ebraico (Hebrew Museum) in Bologna. This
is within the “Ghetto” area of the city which intermittently throughout history
was walled-off or open, much depending on the rulers at the various time
periods. The museum is simple but
impressive, with videos in Italian and English, beautiful representative
paintings, and ancient frescoes on parts of the walls (MEB - Museo Ebraico di
Bologna.)
Bologna is the city of La Dotta,
La Grassa and La Rossa (The
Learnéd, The Fat and The Red). The
Learnéd because of its history of the University, one of the oldest and most
highly esteemed, the Fat because of its wonderful cuisine, and the Red because
of the rich bricks that many, if not most, of the buildings are made. The Emilia-Romagna (the
ancient Roman road) still runs through the center of the city although most of it is covered
with layers of time and civilization.
The Apennine Mountains prick the distance with their peaks. The buildings remind me of suede: many
with a stucco-like finish of natural beige, chestnut, sienna rust, and rich
golden colors.
We have been eating light and healthy – which is normal here in Italy. Salads, vegetables, cheeses, paper thin
slices of Spek (slightly rich ham) or Mortadella (a very light ham). Annamaria served me some Crema di
limoncello, which is homemade in Vieste, Italy, where her mother lives, and is
absolutely amazing. She is going
to give me the recipe, but important ingredients are the water and lemons and
milk, which are different in every location depending on microclimates, so who
knows how it will turn out. She
also worked for a while as an interpreter for a Balsamic Vinegar company and
showed me a small bottle of “the real thing” that is worth over $100. The process takes at least 25 years and
the white-grape juice is slowly moved from a larger cask (of special woods) to
the next smaller as each evaporates over the summer in an attic storage
area. The final, smallest,
cask affects the flavor much depending upon the type of wood used for the
cask. There is then a huge
consortium which tests and bottles the balsamic in a special bottle, adds the
Consortium label to the back (and the front label is the producer) with the top
cork sealed with paper tag with a Serial Number specific to the bottle.
Ferrara (Thursday, February 26)
An hour-long train ride brought us to Ferrara. There are three types of trains in Italy: the AV (alta velocità or
high speed), the RAV (Regional alta velocità, which is mid-speed) and the Regional regular
train. We took the RAV (which was
the same train that would take me to Venice a couple days later).
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| Castello Entense |
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| Ferrara Cathedral with repair equipment |
Ferrara is another red brick city. Ruled and influenced by the Este family during the
Renaissance, the Castello Entense was completed about 1385. The Castle and other buildings,
including the Cathedral, in Ferrara, were damaged during the regional
earthquake in May 2012. Huge
cracks in the walls and ceilings, chunks have fallen, the turrets sustained
damage – so many areas are sealed off or covered with netting for safety. Between 1600 and 1700 the Este family
lost control of the city and the Pope took over. Cardinals ransacked the city and the population plummeted so
that around 1700 visitors noted that it seemed like a ghost town. Interestingly this allowed the city to
remain basically unchanged until a recent revival so many buildings and such
remain in their “original” state.
After a morning of various activities such as steps to renew
Annamaria’s license and passport, we took a hike up to San Luca basilica on the
hill above Bologna. Just the
section under the porticos was 4 kilometers of stairs and ramps up up up (and
we estimated that we walked about 10 kilometers for the whole day). At times it was so tempting to stop and
sit or grab the little van bus that goes by occasionally, but just after the
steepest section and around a slight corner, I leaned out a portico window and
saw we were much closer than we thought.
Taking our time, we did it.
I wondered why some people were smiling at us in an understanding way as
we went up, but as we were going down, I understood. They had done the same and knew just what an effort it
was.
At the top it was all so obvious that it was worth the
effort. The clouds were breaking
up and the golden sun was shining on sections of the Italian countryside below
us. The basilica is in that
amazing deep salmon brick color, warmth and clean lines. Inside was beautiful! (In a baroque sense) Ornate with gold religious items and
vari-colored marbles and frescos high above. Sadly there was construction equipment right in the center
of the church and plastic covering certain paintings and altars to protect them
from the renovations. The
earthquake of May 2012 had done a great deal of damage to the structure, but
here the workers were fervently active in fixing what needed attention.
Because the main section was blocked off, we had the
opportunity to go up the side stairs to the altar. So close. To
see the Lamps of the Presence from a perspective rarely seen – from above. The detail of the art and artisan work
was amazing. At times I feel this
style is “overdone” but when you examine each item and think of the artist or
artisan who created it in their deepest faith, everything takes on a richer meaning.
We walked toward a café and on the way found a clear,
cold-water fountain from which we drank (having forgotten our water
bottles). Wonderful. So appreciated after the long
hike. It’s these small moments
when one does not take such simple blessings for granted. At the café I had a cold
artisanal beer and Annamaria a fresh squeezed blood-orange juice; then each an espresso as we sat outside
in the sun on tiny tables and stools.
The restaurant is Vito’s Pizzeria and we were tempted to eat, but actually,
we were not hungry. I’m finding
the more I exercise, the less hungry I am.
This was one of those afternoons that will remain clear in
my memory forever.
Venice (Saturday, February 28)
Two hours by train and I’m in Venice – alone this time. Basic instructions: follow the yellow arrows to San
Marco. To return, follow the
yellow arrows to Ferrovia (train station). Use the train bathrooms because once in Venice it will cost
about 1.50€ to use a restroom. I find myself sitting with three Vietnamese women who speak
very good English. They are
heading to Padua and the Planetarium for a show. The mother is surprised I’m
trying to see Venice in only four hours.
One daughter is at the university in Bern, Germany, studying
economics. Wonderful people. Sweet and polite and friendly.
Saint Marks Square started to take form in the 10th century and the
first Saint Mark basilica was built in 832. Legend has it that Saint Mark’s remains were stolen by
Venetian seamen from a monastery in Alexandria and when returned to Venice,
brought great prestige to the city. The winged lion seen throughout the city is
the symbol of Saint Mark. The original basilica was funded in large by
the Partecipazio family who also contributed seven doges (dukes) to the city
between 811-939. This basilica was
destroyed in 976 during a revolt.
In 1063 Domenico Contarini, 30th Doge of Venice, began
reconstruction of the Basilica San Marco and it is the one that remains today. The façade of Saint Marks holds four
Byzantine bronze horses brought back from the 4th Crusade. The portals, atrium and altar are
covered with gold and colored mosaics finished in the 14th
century. The floors are
vari-colored marble mosaics.
Extraordinary.
The tall red Campanile was first constructed in the 9th
century on Roman ruins, went through a long history of lightening strikes and
fires, collapsed in 1902 and rebuilding completed in 1912 and dedicated 1000
years after the first construction.
Two large columns guard the square, dating from 1176, one holds a winged
lion for Saint Mark and the other a statue of Saint Theodore and his dragon. The nearby Clock Tower was constructed
1499 and are crowned with a bell and the two "moors" who strike the
hour. The rose and white Ducal
Palace dates from 1440 and is Gothic in style. The Bridge of Sighs connects the Ducal Palace to the “new
prison (1566) and received this melancholy name later in history. The Rialto Bridge is a double bridge
with shops up either side. It was originally
a bridge made of boats tied together that were later replaced by a wood
bridge. In 1588 the present stone
bridge was designed and built for Antonio da Ponte.
I spent the afternoon just wandering around Venice,
generally heading in the direction of Saint Marks but also taking side
excursions down tiny alleyways and streets, often ending up at a dead end of
canal water. However this
wonderful exploration would allow unexpected chances for interesting
photographs. I love the tiny,
narrow “streets” and the ancient stone and iron of the city. I have a feeling it will influence
another series of paintings to come.
Saint Marks square was overflowing with tourists speaking languages from
all over the world. It’s a mental
trick to remember that people actually do live in this multi-island city. I am so thankful to Annamaria to
encouraging me to go even though she was not able to that day. Grazie!
Bologna –
last day – (Sunday March 1, 2015)
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| colors of Bologna |
This is the area of great vehicle machinery: Lamborghini, Ferrari, Ducati motorcycles
and more.
Marco, a dear friend of Annamaria, drove us out of the city
for my last day lunch. We went
through Pianoro to a family-run restaurant: Al Lago dei Castori. Two amazing fresh pasta dishes then a
plate of amazing Italian cold cut meats, including pancetta and parmaham, of
which you make a sandwich with a super light bread dough which is fried
(somewhat like fried dough but so light and so much better). A nice red wine, three different
desserts to share, an espresso and then the restaurant finale of a small (shot
sized) serving of either blood orange liquor or limoncini (like limoncello only
lighter). Such a wonderful
gesture by the restaurateurs (Annamaria says it is a rather common offering in
smaller restaurants in the area).
After lunch he drove us from Old Pianoro to New Pianoro through hills of
hair-pin curves … the same road that is used for road-testing Ferarri
cars. I think he was tempted to
drive as such but did not so I could snap some photos along the route. A great typical meal to top off my
present stay in Italy.
