"La fille que j'aimera / Sera comme bon vin / Qui se bonifiera /
Un peu chaque matin."
"The girl
that I will love will be like a fine wine that will improve a bit each morning."
The "Bachelor's
Dance", written and sung by Jacques Brel (1957)
This quote that Bill Murray's character Phil says in the movie Groundhog Day is actually lyrics from a song (1957) and is not from the same era as that which Rita (Andie MacDowell) studied in college: 19th-century French poetry. I quote it here in honor of Groundhog Day back home (I understand the rodent DID see his shadow and was scared back into his burrow to wait for six more weeks of winter .. not a big surprise) .. and in honor of la Belle France, that, for me, gets a bit sweeter every day.
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| Payenché |
Occasionally I try to tell myself that being in France is
something that is ordinary to the people who live here, who go about their
daily lives of work, family, cleaning house, reading the paper, feeding the
cats … common everyday activities that happen nearly everywhere in the world
regardless of the country or culture.
But then, for me personally, I lean against a limestone block that was
set as a wall to the house over four hundred years ago, or I look across a field
that has been plowed and harvested for over three millennia, and it is THEN
that I feel the exotic wave of joy at waking up in such a beautiful place each
morning.
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When I have some time to reflect, I sometimes wonder: why do most of us become so complacent in our day-to-day
lives? It is sad. Why can’t we sustain the feeling of
discovery of the world around us each moment - treat it as something that is extra-ordinary and exotic. Not just here in France (as for me) but
for each small fragment of earth where my foot rests? Travel always takes me out of ... I used to say “out of
myself”, but now I feel … out of my normality, out of my complacency. Travel opens my eyes and my spirit
again to expanded joy and clarity in Life. Why would one ever stop?
Winter here is milder, yes, but it still attempts to creep
between the cracks of the limestone walls. But there are not enough cracks and the warmth of the wood stove keeps the living room cozy.
Back home in Maine, there has been an accumulation of record-breaking
snowfalls in the last week or so while I have been away (a record since
1978). This morning here there is
a tiny hint of snow lightly spitting through the air and leaving about a
quarter inch to sugar the ground.
The basin has skimmed over with crazed ice that will melt by
afternoon. In the Pyrenees, about
an hour south, they have about a meter of snow or more and in some mountains
the ski lifts have shut down.
There is not the snow removal equipment nor salt and sand mixture that
we in the Northeast throw on everything, so there is little movement when snow
arrives here. On the southern side
of the Pyrenees Mountains is Spain and warmer weather. (I am heading there next weekend!)
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| Moulin Rochereuil (XII Century) walnut mill |
Yesterday Vivi and I took a morning adventure to an antique
waterfall mill to watch the process of walnuts crushed, roasted, and pressed
into a wonderful golden oil. It is
a beautiful spot, even in the pewter winter morning, tucked between a fork in La Dronne River and a steep limestone cliff. This cliff has been deeply carved by higher water millennia
past and has carved holes from ancient times when it sheltered structures of the Troglodyte culture starting between 10,000 and 25,000 years ago. One can still see these holes and carvings along side a more modern structure. The cliffs are high and are used for rock-climbing (there are hand-holds and pins going up the cliff face).
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| Limestone cliffs, Troglodyte ruins, medieval sheds |
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| inside the mill |
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| pressing the walnut oil |
The owner of the moulin (Grand-Brassac moulin Rochereuil, 12th Century) was a
gregarious gentleman who so enjoyed explaining the process and showing off the
function of the water-driven equipment.
Sadly, he had sold out of any walnut oil to be purchased ... and I was
SO prepared to purchase! We left
with the most wondrous aroma of roasted walnuts permeating our clothing and
hair.
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| finished walnut oil |
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| bottled walnut oil |
Stopping to buy fresh bread
at a corner store, two teens working there quietly said between themselves, “do
you smell something cooking?” to which Vivi responded “it is us, we just came
from the walnut mill.” Skeptical
they sniffed her scarf, which was rich with the fragrance and realized it WAS
us! Best cologne ever!
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| Denis having lunch with friends |
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| cognac from Armagnac |
Those who have been merely tourists in Europe, rushing from
one site to another and staying in a sterile hotel, have missed the matchless experience of experiencing the life of everyday people. The unhurried way that many go about their daily lives. The relaxed in-the-moment living, even
while getting chores and responsibilities completed, is wonderful. Of course they work hard as well, but when they relax and spend time with friends and family it can be different. Compared to the
harried “American” way of living, eating lunch in a half hour or dinner in an
hour, with everything piled on the plate at once, here one can take two to
three hours for lunch or dinner, to enjoy the taste of each mouthful of fresh, basic, and delicious food, sips of wine or water, intermixed with relaxed
conversation, thoughts shared, and quiet moments with friends. C’est la bonne vie.
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| tea with friends |
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| fresh endives at the Marché |
For lunch? Soup?
Perhaps a soup from broth of the pot roast made the previous day, with added vegetables and herbs, and
small bits of dry bread placed at the bottom of the bowl just before serving. However, don't forget that
the soup is not the only item for lunch, even though it was announced as just "soup". After comes the slices of meat or fish, a light salad of lettuce or
endive with walnut oil and balsamic dressing, then the bread and cheeses (ah,
the choices of cheeses!), then perhaps a light cake or fruit, and even after
retire to the living room for a cup of strong coffee and perhaps a special
piece of chocolate from the region.
All accompanied with easy and quiet conversation with friends who have
traveled and lived in a variety of countries.
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| the best country bread & wine (Bergerac) |
* MORE PHOTOS *
(more walnut mill photos near the bottom of the photo album)
it seems you may need a Google account to access the photos (free & easy)
~
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